YAROSLAVL. RUSSIAN PARADISE
Yaroslavskaya gora – is the present-day Strelka, a hill bounded
by the rivers Volga and Kotorosl, and on the third side – by
the Medveditsky ditch-ravine. It was here that the key events
of the early history took place. In terns of mythology the Yaroslavl
hill is the world hill, the sacred grave of the times of which
no written records have been preserved, the main heathen temple
and birthplace of Veles.
There used to be a settlement on this site called Medvezhy Ugol,
a trading station rather than a fortress, a place for trade
and crafts (the town has been famous for these ever since) on
the great Volga route fromVarangians to Arabs which connected
the Baltic Sea and the White Sea regions with the Hazar kingdom,
Persia and Bagdad.
Since those times Yaroslavl region situated in the upper Volga
has been involved in the orbit of world life and Yaroslavl has
remained the cross-roads of age-old water-ways and
high-ways. The rivers Volga and Kotorosl have been the main
streets of the Town for centuries.
But another thing is also important. Yaroslavl was a hidden
gate to the secret mystical garden of the Tsarsky grad, Rostov-Veliky.
Yaroslavl – the threshold of the eternity, the decorated gate
to the heavenly town of Kitezh. It is from here that a voyage-pilgrimage
begins along the secret invisible Volga flowing into the mystic
Svetloyar, and no wonder that it was here that the Kitezh legend
was recorded, and later, when Yaroslavl was founded at the foot
of the sacred hill, in the Medveditsky ditch, the famous “Lay
of Igor’s Host” was found.
Yaroslavl is the hometown of people’s volunteer corps which
was being raised here by Kozma Minin and Dmitry Pozharsky in
1612, and for several months the town was, in fact, the capital
of the collapsing country, and the starting point of its future
salvation.
The landscape polycentrism of Yaroslavl reveals itself in the
appearance of new centres, towns within a town, the most striking
of which is the Melenki-Zelentsovsky Brook district. There in
the early XVIII century a space began to be structurised around
the Big Yaroslavl textile mill that in the Soviet times came
to be called Krasny Perekop. Its focus is the grand Peter and
Paul Cathedral in the park with fountains and sculptures, with
a detached house of the manager over a system of communicating
ponds. It is a successful attempt to realize a regular utopia,
a logical chimera which is, however, no more that a picturesque
ruin at present.
It should be noted that Yaroslavl is the “home of Russian theatre”.
Fyodor Volkov and Ivan Dmitriyevsky began their rise here. In
Yaroslavl the XVIII century was the age of imaginary and fantastic
art, the age of theatre.The dominance of dramatic art in the
cultural life of Yaroslavl is a compensation for the social
failure of the XVII century Renaissance. This is a dramatically
complex baroque reaction to the crisis of the Renaissance with
its bravuro-optimistic life goals and plans. The facade of the
theatre has become the visiting card of Yaroslavl and the magnificent
hall with overhead frescoes depicting an ancient ritual procession
– its elisium of arts.
Yevgeny Yermolin

